Conceived in rich buttery gold with the center woven in diamonds, the Ray Brooch derives its origins from the bold Maltese Cross and starburst designs Verdura created for Chanel in the 1930s. In 1929, the Bibliotheque Nationale had exhibited a show of memorabilia relating to the Sovereign and Military Order of the Knights Hospitaller of St. John of Jerusalem, inspiring Fulco to incorporate the insignia of the Knights of Malta - the Maltese cross - in his jewelry. With Fulco’s playful sense of irony and Chanel’s revolution of dressing the female form, the two collaborators must have taken delight in adorning women with honors reserved only for men. The brooch quickly found favor with Millicent Rogers, Princess Nataley Paley and New York society swans.