Verdura began his career in the early 1930s when he started working for Coco Chanel. Among the first pieces he made were the Theodora and Ravenna brooches, vibrant starburst designs that symbolized their notable departure from contemporary jewelry of the era. Inspired by the richly hued mosaics and gold-encrusted treasures of the Byzantine Empire, Verdura set gemstones into gold like tiles, mixing precious and semi-precious stones in various colors and cuts. Diana Vreeland, future Fashion Editor at Harper’s Bazaar and Editor-In-Chief of Vogue, recognized their importance and quickly acquired them.